Peggy Sagers: Beads, one of humanity's earliest luxuries.

For over 5,000 years, archaeological records show that beads have been used to adorn and elevate.

From shells, stones, and carved wood in ancient times to shimmering embellishments of the Middle Ages, beadwork has always been a symbol of artistry and status.

In the 1920s, the flapper dress dripping with beads captured the spirit of the Jazz Age.

Beaded dresses, past, present, and how to make them your own today on "Fit 2 Stitch."

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♪♪♪ Peggy: Nataliya has a business close to where I live; and often I love to just stop in just to kind of have a little chat to see what she's working on, to see what alterations or repairs or creations she's coming up with.

And the latest thing that she's been working on, you know, it's been a while now, is these dance dresses.

These dance dresses are-- Nataliya Desheva: It's my favorite things to do.

Peggy: It's out of this world.

I mean, they're really beautiful.

Nataliya: It's so beautiful, yeah, it's a lot of options.

Peggy: And a lot of money.

Nataliya: And a lot of money too, but it's beautiful.

Peggy: And mostly what you're doing-- what's the beginning entry level?

If someone came to you and said, "I wanted to-- a beaded dance dress," what would you say?

Nataliya: I can always ask like, "What kind of dance dress?

What fabrics would you like to use, or what stones?"

Like, it's all depends on the customer.

Peggy: What would be the cheapest price?

Nataliya: Cheapest price probably will be $1,500.

Peggy: $1,500, okay.

Nataliya: Yeah, cheapest one, but it's not too many stones on the dress.

Peggy: Okay, and it's the stones that are the cost to-- Nataliya: Stones is the main thing, yeah.

It take a lot of time to glue because you do one by one stone.

Peggy: I have seen so many beautiful things that you've done.

So you've agreed to share, teach us how to do all this.

All right, where do we start?

Nataliya: Usually we start with customers; like, to choose a sketch, choose exact the dress.

They want it long, short, openings, slits, like what materials we're gonna use.

Peggy: And do you--are you okay with saying to them, "That won't work," or, "This would be better?"

Nataliya: I always tell my customer, "It's gonna be the best for your body," or, "It's not gonna be good with your body."

Peggy: Oh, so you do?

You don't have--you don't hold back at all.

If they're gonna--if they want-- Nataliya: They actually really appreciate it I tell them true because-- Peggy: That's a good thing to know because I think a lot of the people are afraid to say, "Hey, this is not gonna work for you."

Nataliya: Because I doesn't like to create something they're not gonna be happy.

Peggy: Sure.

Nataliya: Yeah, just--it should be something perfect if it's from scratch.

Peggy: And so you first decide basically on a design.

Inspiration can come from them, from you, from all over.

Nataliya: I help them once in a while like they--if they needed help.

Most of the times they bring idea.

Peggy: I'll bet that's true because most of the time if you're dancing-- Nataliya: I really like customers who know--like, they know what they want to do.

Peggy: Yeah, I can--I totally can appreciate that.

And then it's okay with amending it, but you want them to start.

And do I start then with the base dress?

Nataliya: Yeah, we usually start with the base dress, then we choose fabric, maybe design, color.

Peggy: Is it all stretch fab-- Nataliya: Color is the main things here.

Peggy: Color is the main thing?

Nataliya: For dance dresses, yes, it's all stretchy fabric except maybe chiffon parts for the standard dresses, let's say.

Yeah, use a lot mesh.

They like to see--like, to be see-through but not naked, let's say, completely.

Peggy: Like a stretch-- Nataliya: Yeah, stretch net, yeah.

Peggy: So that's actually like a base?

Nataliya: Yeah, this is a base.

This is a base, too.

It's like regular stretchy fabric, and it's supposed to be stretchy all way like-- Peggy: In both directions.

Nataliya: Yeah, both directions.

Peggy: It has to probably, right?

Nataliya: It has to be, yeah, because it's a lot of movements involved in the dance, right?

Peggy: So as far as quality of this fabric, does that really matter if it's-- Nataliya: Yes, of course, it's really matter.

Peggy: But you have sources for this.

So you've gone to places-- Nataliya: Yeah, we can--like, I can order online or I can go to local stores to buy.

Actually, I like to go to stores to feel the fabric.

Feel quality and see color exactly.

Peggy: So cost-wise, what would this--just a plain, what would that cost per yard if I was looking for it to buy?

Nataliya: Let's say for whole dress it can be like $200, $300.

Peggy: To buy that base?

Nataliya: Dress--fabric, it's not so expensive.

Peggy: So I've heard so many people say, "Oh, I got this fabric at a really great price."

And I always get worried because it can't be really great quality.

Nataliya: --from $9 and maybe most expensive $30, $40 for yard.

Peggy: Okay, so this is really--this is easy stretch in both directions.

Nataliya: Yeah, this is stretchy all directions.

Peggy: So this--there's a big difference in the base if this--I'm really going for color, where this is really just-- Nataliya: This is usually using-- Peggy: Something's gonna be on top of it.

Nataliya: Skin color fabrics for body suits inside because every dress--dance dress have body suit inside, and we use skin color fabric.

Peggy: And so this can even be a base?

Nataliya: Not really.

It's not so stretchy.

I usually use this one.

Not stretchy enough.

I just cut decor and glue or stitch on the stretchy fabric.

Peggy: So good stretch in both directions, that's my base.

Nataliya: This is the main thing for the dance dresses, too.

Make sure it's stretchy enough.

Make sure they can move and dance and be comfortable.

Peggy: So it's really gonna help if they have that picture of what they want because it's gonna really dictate what the part sho--what the base should be, what the top should be, all that other stuff.

Nataliya: Yes, exactly.

It's go--we always do sketch first and decide on every line on the dress, like openings on the back or openings on the front or-- Peggy: Gotcha, how to get into--the mechanics.

Nataliya: Yeah, exactly.

Peggy: The mechanics.

That stuff is really important.

So are these sketches of stuff you've done?

Nataliya: This is sketches I'm done a long time ago.

You see, we create sketch with the lines and everything and then we try to choose fabric or the dress, the one they like it, the ones they need it.

It just all depends on the customer.

Peggy: This is so cool.

And then you can select all kinds of-- Nataliya: All kind of decor.

This is just piece for stones--glued stones, yeah.

Peggy: Okay, this is just fun.

I just want one of these just to-- Nataliya: And it's beautiful.

Peggy: They're just fun to touch.

Nataliya: This is--it sells separately already make decor.

You can just use this one for the dress to add it somewhere on the front or on the back.

Peggy: So these are just pre-purchased?

Nataliya: Yeah, yeah, yeah.

And it's different colors, different shapes, which just make life much easier.

Peggy: So do you have a tendency to once you have the dress in mind you start collecting things?

Nataliya: Yes, I start collecting.

Sometimes the idea come during the process.

You will see which one is better.

We have fittings.

We play with decor.

We play with colors, like, "Oh, let's make line right here," or, "Let's add a little bit more stones on this side," or, "Let's--" Peggy: So it really is a process.

Nataliya: Yeah, it's a process, yeah.

Peggy: But it's fun to have somebody do that process with you 'cause sometimes I think if you're doing it alone it's a lot harder to figure out what that process should be?

No?

You don't need somebody else, you can do it all by yourself.

So let's talk about this dress 'cause this dress is extraordinary.

Nataliya: It's beautiful, yes.

It's a--just a masterpiece.

Peggy: Again, this is all on this mesh netting the whole entire thing.

Nataliya: Whole entire thing, it's a mesh netting, yeah.

And it's--like, let's say sleeves, it's a single layer; and body, it's double layer, make sure it's not see-through a lot.

Peggy: Oh, so there's secrets in here.

Nataliya: But it's only mesh right here.

Peggy: And how do you get into this dress?

Nataliya: They have zippers on the front.

Peggy: There's a zipper right there.

Nataliya: Zippers on the front.

Because usually girls, they need to change dresses quick during the show, and it's much easier to have zipper on the front to--like, they don't need extra help.

Peggy: You don't even see that zipper, though.

Nataliya: You cannot see it, yeah.

It's invisible zipper, and it's color.

Peggy: Oh, it's an invisible zipper.

Nataliya: There's a lot of stones, yeah, on the top.

Peggy: Do you put it in by hand?

Nataliya: Actually, yes, by hand.

Peggy: That would just make--it's so much easier to predict the outcome, I think.

Nataliya: You can stitch this one because it's already stones on the top or something, yeah, but-- Peggy: So what would a dress like this cost?

Nataliya: This one approximately 6, $7,000.

But it's art.

It's just beautiful.

It's just art, yeah.

It's absolutely beautiful dress.

Look at all this.

Different size and different colors, stones.

Different laces.

Different decor.

Peggy: What's interesting to me is the different sizes of stones on here, the large as well as the small, the gradation.

Some here--there's open areas here.

And then the purple at the bottom, which it's interesting to me that it's blue at the top and purple at the bottom.

I don't know that I would have ever--I love it.

Nataliya: Customer thinking.

You know, like some people ask--you see, they put even purple mesh right here to kind of blend in.

Peggy: So there's definitely not a pattern or one dress that you have to follow.

You really-- Nataliya: It's hard to create exactly same two dresses, let's say.

I just--you have idea.

You put this idea together, and even next time you cannot do it exactly same pattern with stones or--it's always close but not exactly the same, yeah.

Peggy: Nor would you even want to.

Nataliya: It's basically one-on-a-kind dress in the world.

Peggy: Wow.

And I--you know, when I think about it, the movement has to be here.

You're reaching your arms up, down, backwards.

Whatever they move, this--the--I guess the netting or the stretch will accommodate for all of that.

Nataliya: A lot of think it's fabric make to help to move, plus it's a little bit different pattern for the arm hole than usual-- Peggy: Smaller.

Nataliya: Smaller and more close to the arm.

Peggy: Got it.

Nataliya: Make sure it doesn't stop you from movements.

Peggy: This is just amazing.

So let's go to this other one.

Because I know you did this one and I know-- because the first time I said--I saw it I said to you, "Okay, like, how many stones are on this?"

Would you even know how many?

Nataliya: It's like 28,000 stones on this dress.

Twenty-eight thousand, yes.

And imagine one by one.

It's not like a-- Peggy: Every stone by hand.

Nataliya: Yeah, every stone by hand and every stone one by one.

You put glue, you put stone.

You put glue, you put stone and just--it's-- Peggy: So how long would it have taken you to do this dress?

Nataliya: Three months, let's say, to finish this dress.

Peggy: You have the patience to do this, huh?

Nataliya: Oh, it's--like, it's my meditation.

It's kind of fun stuff to do.

Peggy: It kind of gets like that.

Nataliya: Yeah, yeah, I really--to relax me actually.

Peggy: You start and you follow the neckline first?

Nataliya: I do, like, neckline, maybe sleeves right here, and then I go slowly to the bottom.

Peggy: And then the sleeves you start at the bottom 'cause they're all straight at the bottom.

Nataliya: Stop--I start from the bottom and go up.

Peggy: And is the dress finished or are you doing the actual flat-- Nataliya: Dress is finished and then you put stones on the dress.

Peggy: Okay, so never the pieces?

Nataliya: Not really, no, because you need the ability to stitch, use serger and regular machine because you cannot--if stone on a way, it's-- away way hole on the fabric.

Peggy: So in this particular case, you--the customer came in, said she wanted the dress.

You decided on the color.

You made the dress, no beads.

She fit it on.

She loved it.

Nataliya: Yeah, we make couple fittings.

We make exactly, like, fitted perfectly and then we glue stones on the dress.

Peggy: Three months later she got the dress?

Nataliya: Yes.

Peggy: Did she come in and see it partly beaded?

Did you ever think of saying, "Hey--" Nataliya: I send pictures.

Peggy: One month, two months, three months.

Nataliya: I'm working--kind of working with your dress, make sure you know.

Three months later, yes.

Peggy: And do you start the process in the front first and then go to the back?

Nataliya: Yeah, it's--basically doesn't matter; but yeah, you can start with the front and fill lines and everything and--yeah.

Peggy: So I'm gonna ask you a detailed question 'cause I'm gonna make myself a dress.

Do you actually put dots where the beads are going to go or do you-- Nataliya: I put dots with the glue.

Like, first I put like, let's say-- Peggy: You're gonna show us how, but-- Nataliya: Yeah, I'm gonna show you how, but-- Peggy: To mark the dress-- Nataliya: Yeah, but I don't mark place where I'm gonna put stones.

I just use glue right away and put stones.

Yeah, I just see--I see lines, let's say.

Peggy: So you can freehand that around there and know that that distance is gonna be the same on all those stones.

Nataliya: It's very--like, let's say it's the same, but nobody can see it even if it's a little bit different.

Peggy: But, see, I know you and you're very exact.

Like, there's things I'll eyeball that you will not eyeball, but you'll eyeball this.

Nataliya: Yes.

Peggy: And the weight.

What kind of weight does this add?

Nataliya: Oh my gosh, it's so heavy.

It is so heavy.

Yes, it's so heavy.

I even don't know.

Maybe, you know, 4 pounds.

Peggy: And is there any way to get the crystals without the weight?

No.

Nataliya: No.

Peggy: The crystals are gonna add that weight.

Nataliya: Usually, crystals without weight is more plastic one, and they're not shiny enough, let's say.

Peggy: They don't have a reflection.

Nataliya: There's no reflection, yeah.

This is like--this effect only from crystals or stones.

Peggy: All right, we got to look at this one just because-- Nataliya: Absolutely beautiful.

Peggy: Yeah, this has another whole layer in here of beaded.

Nataliya: Yeah, it's a beaded fringe.

Peggy: And I asked you about this before, but this is--every one is hand-beaded.

Nataliya: Yes, yes.

It's not hand-beaded.

Let's say they--now they sell already beaded fringe.

What you need to do, just sew on the dress.

Peggy: Okay, so you just cut the strand and make sure the beads don't come off.

Nataliya: I have some samples.

I can show you how it looks, yeah.

Peggy: Okay.

And then this keeps it down all the way.

Nataliya: This is--keeps sleeves stay.

If they move a lot, just make sure it doesn't go up on the arm.

Peggy: What is this, just design?

Nataliya: Just design, yes.

It's something--design.

It doesn't make any specific stuff yet, but look at all this.

Like, you can play with bigger stones, smaller stones, different shape stones and create all these beautiful ideas from like--from scratch.

Peggy: It's just amazing to me, but, again, the base of the dress has already been fitted.

So there's really no panic that it won't work when you're doing--'cause a lot of times-- Nataliya: You do a dress first and then you do--put all the decor on the dress.

Peggy: A lot of times when we sew, we do all this work and then we put it on and it doesn't fit so we panic.

Nataliya: It's different, yeah.

This is different, yeah.

It should be fit perfectly before you put all decor on this dress.

Peggy: And so what ki--these different colors.

Like, right here it's nude and you can almost--it almost looks like it's a see-through.

But this is a wine color, so this is a different color.

Nataliya: This is a different color, kind of same quality fabric.

It's a mesh.

Peggy: And it's been seamed somewhere in through here.

Nataliya: Yes, yes.

And it's--we usually--I usually use zigzag machine for the seams or serger.

Seams also should be flexible.

Peggy: Okay, and the serger--when you serge the seams, they are flexible.

Nataliya: Yes, especially when you do four thread.

Peggy: When you're dealing with an open fabric like this, is a serger better than a hand-sewn?

Nataliya: Serger is much better because serger is-- it's give fabric stretch--like, give seam stretchiness.

Peggy: So those additional stitches in the mesh is actually better for it, not worse?

Nataliya: I do regular stitch just to put patterns together, then I put serger on the top but I hide regular stitch inside the serger stitch.

Peggy: Yes, gotcha.

Nataliya: Yeah, because if it breaks, make sure serger still holds whole seam together.

Peggy: And are--these straps, are they more than simply mesh?

Do they need to-- Nataliya: It's a mesh and elastic inside.

It also should be flexible.

Peggy: So everything moves.

Everything's kind of meant to move.

Nataliya: --because it's the main thing for the dance dresses.

Peggy: These armholes do look really small now that you've mentioned it.

So they're just right the size-- Nataliya: Yeah, because they're supposed to be right under your arm to give you freedom to move.

Yes.

Peggy: And because the mesh is going in both directions.

Nataliya: Mesh is also, yeah, stretch both directions, yeah.

See, it just-- Peggy: Wow.

Do you look at this, you're just so proud of it?

Nataliya: Of course, yes.

Peggy: Wow.

All right, so let's go to the table.

You're gonna show us how.

Nataliya: Yeah, of course.

Peggy: All right, this is fun.

Nataliya: Let's say--for the dance dresses, I like to use glue and glue stones because some people they're doing hotfix.

Hotfix doesn't stay strong on the dresses.

Since it's a lot of movements in the dress, a lot of, like, touching and everything, it's better to use glue for the stones.

This way it's gonna be strong enough to stay on the fabric.

Peggy: That's so interesting 'cause I would think just the opposite.

Just if I were doing it all on my own, I would think that somehow the heat would set it more stronger than the glue, but you've got lots of examples where the glue is-- Nataliya: This have, like, stones with already glue in the back and you use hotfix to glue them.

Actually, this vest was made with the hotfix stones.

Why we did this one?

Because hotfix doesn't show too much glue between the stones when you do all this work.

Peggy: Okay, hotfix-- Nataliya: This is a little bit messy, but it's dry.

Peggy: I see.

Oh, so it dries clear?

Nataliya: Dries clear, yeah, but still a little bit more visible.

Peggy: So because you were doing black on black you decided to do the hotfix.

So when you buy the stones, do you buy them for either glue or hotfix?

So you have to know what you're doing.

Nataliya: Usually they mention this in stores, like it's a hotfix or glue.

Peggy: So I feel like I'm gonna put you on the spot asking you this, but I'm gonna ask you anyway.

When you go to do a dress that has 28,000 stones, how do you know how many stones to buy?

Nataliya: You can always calculate approximately, let's say, but buy less because they're very expensive.

You don't wanna buy a bunch of stones right away.

Let's say--I spent $2,000 for the stones on this dress.

Peggy: So out of the $5,000-- Nataliya: And I ordered three times because it was not enough yet.

Yeah.

Peggy: So $2,000 is just in stones?

Nataliya: Just the stones, yes.

Peggy: Wow.

And so you ordered, didn't have enough.

Nataliya: Ordered a lot, like let's say 10,000.

Then I said, "Okay, it's not enough.

Let's order 5,000 more."

Peggy: And so you can't return them, so you go slow.

Nataliya: Yeah, that's probably the main thing.

Peggy: But what if they'd come back and said, "We didn't have any more of that color?"

Nataliya: Then you need to go and find somewhere else.

Peggy: So check ahead of time.

Nataliya: Exactly, yeah, yeah, yeah.

Peggy: So now doing it one time even--I know you've done it more than one time.

But the first time you did it, have you gotten more to where you know how to calculate a little bit better?

Nataliya: Exactly.

When you start to work, you put like 10,000, you will see exactly how many you already cover and-- Peggy: Like a sleeve takes 1,000 stones maybe?

Nataliya: Not 1,000.

At least 3,000, 4,000 on the sleeves.

Peggy: Three to four thousand on the sleeves?

Nataliya: On these sleeves, yes.

If it's stone to stone-- Peggy: I would never imagine that many.

Nataliya: If you use bigger size, you need less stones.

If you use smaller one, you need much more.

Yes.

Peggy: So is it cost-effective to use bigger stones or-- Nataliya: Yes, yes, yes.

Peggy: So if you want a cheaper dress than $5,000, go with the bigger stones.

Nataliya: Yes, go with the bigger stones because for me it's less work to glue like, let's say, 10,000 stones than do 20,000 small ones.

Peggy: Now, are the stones actually cheaper or just the labor?

Nataliya: It's about kind of equal.

Peggy: Okay, so the stones are cheaper and then, of course, less labor to put them on.

Nataliya: Yes, yes, exactly.

Peggy: So go with the bigger stone.

I love that, that's the motto of the day.

Nataliya: But I like to mix big and small one because it give different shine on the dress, yeah, and it's much more fun.

Peggy: And you get fast at it because you got 28,000 more to go.

Nataliya: Yes, exactly.

All right, I use glue.

They have special tools you can put glue inside.

Plus, for these things, they have different tip for--depends on the size of the stone.

Peggy: So it will only release that much glue based on how-- Nataliya: Which is not too much or not--yeah.

Peggy: That's worthwhile.

Nataliya: I like to use little bit kind of medium size because you need to put a lot of pressure on your fingers when you glue, and it's kind of painful after 28,000 stones.

Peggy: Anything's painful after 28,000.

Nataliya: Exactly, after 28--let's say, I didn't put right away whole thing with the glue.

I do maybe five, six, eight dots.

You see, you can put dots, and you can, of course, choose--look at it.

It's exactly spaces.

Peggy: Oh my gosh.

Nataliya: And, again, this is a special tool.

It's a silicone.

It's help you to--see, it's hold your stone right here, and you just put stones on the top of this glue.

Peggy: Oh my gosh.

Nataliya: And you can choose, again, different colors, different patterns.

Peggy: So you don't even use your fingers.

Nataliya: No, you--no, it--these fingers are gonna take forever or you're gonna get crazy at all.

Yes.

And what's good about this glue, it's dry-fast.

Like, you--if you need to move your dress from one side to another one, it's already dry.

Peggy: That was really amazing, I know I won't try it.

I was gonna say I want to try that; but no, I better not.

You made it look so easy.

Nataliya: It looks easy because I have a lot of experience with all this.

And, again, you see it's different sizes, different shapes and, of course, colors.

Peggy: And that glue--so glue this big one for me just so I know how much glue--like with the beads, that little dot was good.

Nataliya: Yeah, let's see.

You can always put like this a little bit on the top of this big one.

Peggy: And should you?

Do you?

Nataliya: Yeah, it's what I'm doing.

And I put a little bit on the fabric, too.

Just make sure it's strong enough, yeah.

Yeah, like this.

Peggy: And that glue will adhere to anything?

Nataliya: --enough.

Make sure it doesn't go on the sides.

Make sure it's not too much.

Peggy: But it doesn't matter the fabric.

That glue will adhere to pretty much-- Nataliya: This glue go to every fabric, yeah.

Peggy: And you don't have to work-- Nataliya: You even can glue feather with this glue.

Peggy: So those long beads we were talking about, you just cut those-- Nataliya: This is fringe--beaded fringes.

Peggy: Oh, that's what it is.

Nataliya: You see, it's already prepared fringes.

You just open one by one, or maybe you can use three at the same time.

Put in a needle and-- Peggy: And are those glued, or do you sew those?

Nataliya: Sew them.

I do sew them 'cause this is--should be--it's heavy.

It should be strong enough.

Glue, it's not always strong enough for heavy stuff.

Peggy: This has been way too much fun.

You know, the costs are there.

It doesn't matter.

You know, they're just expensive.

Nataliya: It just take a lot of time, a lot of patience.

Peggy: They're so pretty.

And this will stay--do they, you know-- Nataliya: It's gonna stay, and this is gonna be dry in 2, 3 minutes.

See, it's already stay on the fabric.

It doesn't move at all.

See like this?

Peggy: And is that washable?

Nataliya: It's washable by hand of course, not machine or-- not even dry cleaners.

I think all of them doing washing by hand.

Make sure it's not too much heat for the stones.

Peggy: Tell me about this.

This is just--it's gorgeous.

Nataliya: Yeah, this is one of my latest creation, let's say.

Peggy: And different in that this was-- Nataliya: This is a different style dance.

It's a rhythm.

And they use pants for this one.

Usually I got--I make body suits for her.

Body suits.

She put pants, and then on the top she put this belt.

See?

Peggy: And you did all this?

Nataliya: And I did all this from scratch.

Peggy: Oh my gosh.

Nataliya: And you see right here I used appliqués from fabric like this.

This one about maybe 5,000 stones, 4,000.

Peggy: Geez.

Well, I can't say thanks enough.

This is just wonderful.

Just to get an insight and know that if we wanna go down this journey we got to count carefully and know that we're in for some time.

Nataliya: They can always reorder.

Peggy: We can always reorder.

Thank you, Nataliya.

Nataliya: Yes, you're welcome, thank you.

Peggy: Appreciate you being here.

Collars, linings, and waistbands, oh my.

But don't worry, we're taking these three essentials and bringing them into easy mode.

We'll break them down and show you the ready-to-wear approach to each one.

Join me next time on "Fit 2 Stitch" where sewing gets smart, stylish, and simple.

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♪♪♪ announcer: Elliott Berman Textiles.

♪♪♪ announcer: And WAWAK Sewing Supplies.

♪♪♪ announcer: To order a 4-DVD set of "Fit 2 Stitch" Series 14, please visit our website at fit2stitch.com.